FRONT SUSPENSION
----------------

I used the RaceRunner 650 lb/in coil-over kit from
Sway-A-Way. I have to agree with Jeff that this
does appear to be much better quality than the other
kits. (Many thanks, Jeff). (Part # 52000-108-5,
"Tacoma Coil Over 2" shock").

The kit is adjustable, and I set it to 2 1/2 inches of
lift over (estimated) stock condition, or about 3 inches
over current (sagged) condition. (I have a TJM bumper,
winch, and dual batteries that add extra weight.)

Here are the various dimensions, measured from wheel
hub center to fender lip, in inches:

Pre-Lift: FL = 19 1/2 FR = 19 3/4
Estimated stock: FL = 20 FR = 20 1/4
Post-Lift: FL = 22 1/2 FR = 22 1/2

Coil-over exposed
thread showing: L = 3 1/8 R = 2 7/8

REAR SUSPENSION
---------------

For the rear, I used the Old Man Emu (OME) heavy duty
springs (HD) # OME 891 and firm valve shocks (# N86).
The springs came as a pair, with the driver-side (DS)
spring about 1/2 inch longer than the passenger-side
(PS) spring.

Here are the numbers again:

Pre-Lift: RL = 20 1/4 RR = 20 1/2 (unloaded)
Pre-Lift: RL = 19 1/2 RR = 20 (~150 lb load)
Post-Lift: RL = 23 RR = 23 (~150 lb load)

(I have a roof rack and tow hitch installed; I
suspect the springs will sag slightly over time.)

INSTALLATION (FRONT)
--------------------

The Sway-A-Away kit comes with instructions, but no
spanner wrench. I bought a spanner wrench from www.mcmaster.com, part # 5472A5. Don't even try
turning the shock without a spanner wrench. (Even
with the right tool, I had to use a "cheater pipe"
at times).

The instructions are reasonbly good, although they
could use some supplementing:

1. The instructions didn't have any torque values.
I just used the factory values specified in the
2000 4Runner shop manual:

- lower shock/suspension arm bolt: 101 ft-lb
- 3 top shock retaining nuts: 47 ft-lb
- center top shock nut: 18 ft-lb (???)

2. To remove the old shock/coil assemply (and install
the new one), it is necessary to push down on the wheel
assembly. I just took the OEM tire jack, and placed it
upside down in the wheel well to push down on the upper
suspension arm. I think this method is better than having
an assistant push down. (Don't over-do it, though :-)

INSTALLATION (REAR)
-------------------

The OME springs didn't come with any instructions.

1. Here are the notes from the shop manual:

- remove parking brake cable bracket from rear
axle housing.
- disconnect rear shock absorber
- disconnect stabilizer bar brackets
- disconnect lateral control rod from frame
- lower rear axle housing and remove spring

2. It is important to keep both ends of the rear
axle suspended (with jacks and/or shock absorbers).
Otherwise, you will end up pulling the brake line
too tight, thereby breaking it. When lowering the
axle to remove/install a spring, lower only *one*
end at a time. (The spring just pops right out!)

3. The rear shocks are quite difficult to remove
and install because the top retainer nut is difficult
to access. I had to tinker a lot with various wrenches
to hold the nut in place while rotating the shock.

4. Here are the factory torque values again:

- lower shock absorber nut: 47 ft-lb
- upper shock absorber nut: 14 ft-lb
(good luck measuring this :-)
- stabilizer bar link upper nut: 14 ft-lb
- lateral control rod bolts: 64 ft-lb

5. After installing the rear springs and shocks,
I had some difficulty re-installing the lateral
control rod. I ended up re-installing the wheels,
and parking the vehicle on a slight incline in
order to get the rod bolt opening to line up so
that I could insert the bolt.

RIDE QUALITY
------------

On pavement, the firmer springs and shocks
absorb the bumps better. This is definitely
an improvement--I'm not bouncing around as much.

However, there is more side-to-side sway,
presumeably because of the center of gravity
is now nearly 3 inches higher.

Steering has deteriorated. 1) I need an
alignment due to the change in geometry.
2) The steering knuckle connector rods are
now at an angle--I think this is causing
increased streering jar in dips.

I'll let you know how it performs off-road
in a few days.

SOME ISSUES
-----------

1. There is *very slight* vibration in the steering
wheel at 60 mph. I think this is due to the
CV joints. I don't know if lowering the front
a 1/2 inch will eliminate this or if I should
expect at least *some* vibration with any lift.
I have made a separate posting on this subject.

2. There is also some slight vibration in the
rear driveshaft U joints at various speeds. I
assume this is normal and harmless.

3. At full drop (droop?) of the rear axle (both
wheels), the rear brake line is pulled fairly tight.
It might be worth extending it by an inch.

4. It would be nice to be able to adjust the
steering geometry (with replacement knuckles
or adapters) so that the rods are level again.

5. The rear lateral control rod is now at an
increased angle. I don't know if this is
significant enough to cause increased sideways
sway in dips.

6. The OEM tire jack is now too short :-)